As the resident New Yorker, a non-defector to the left coast, I so looked forward to my voyage to Long Island's North Fork wine country in hopes of gaining some competitive wine clout against my west coast comrades. As one of Long Island's last stands of traditional agriculture (yes, all of Long Island was once covered by potato farms), the North Fork seemed ripe for my liking - coastline culture, pie stands and intimate vineyards. The day was gray but that almost made it warmer, more like home, it wasn't the perfectly coiffed Napa or the overtly rustic Sonoma. Locality is key in the North Fork. And there's not a hint of its excess-filled south fork neighbor.

We landed on Orient Point by way of the New London ferry. The main drag, Route 25, goes west across the entire island, we made it as far west as Jamesport, a quaint coastal town. On Rt 25 you'll find the big name North Fork wineries, akin to 29 in Napa Valley, but less ostentatious. We had an insider's tip to go straight to Shinn Estates Vineyard, quite off the beaten path. Shinn was intimate, built in the North Fork vernacular. The owners once ran a successful New York City restaurant. The wine was lovely. Highly drinkable, smooth, and complimentary. I recommend the "Wild Boar Doe", a playful take on the traditional Bordeaux. Shinn's a sophisticated vineyard that enjoys sustainability and locality in the most endearing way.

We were sidetracked by Briermere Farms, for a stand overflowing with apple varieties. In addition to 2 apples and a personal pie (every kind you can imagine, jams too!), I purchased an antique fruit crate. Again, notes of the North Fork's traditional agricultural upbringings.

Onto my most favorite: The Old Field, part winery, part kick ass working farm complete with goats, chickens and roosters. The Westchester native owners (yes, I may be bias) have found the key to the perfect tasting room - a wood burning furnace. Drinking wine, huddled around the fire, yes. Their wines were a delight. Rooster Tail was the best, we purchased 3 bottles. The most perfect wine with the most burgers I made the next day.

It wasn't until nightfall that the beauty of North Fork revealed itself, so undeveloped that it was almost too dark in tiny Greenport. For the only open (and modern) restaurant, hit up the Frisky Oyster, fun and surprisingly trendy for sleepy Greenport. While I still can't get enough of rolling California hills and infinite vineyards, the North Fork is a welcomed compliment that maintains its character in the most organic way.